Jet

Carat weight is less important than the overall size and quality of carvings or beads. Jet is comparatively light and can be worked in large pieces. Larger, finely carved or well-matched bead strands are more valuable than small chips or simple shapes, but price per carat does not rise steeply with size.

The most desirable jet is a uniform, deep black with a smooth, glossy surface after polishing. Dull, brownish or uneven coloration may indicate lower-quality material or surface weathering and is generally less valued in fine jewelry.

In jet, clarity refers to structural coherence: material should be compact and free of cracks, internal voids and crumbly zones. Polished surfaces should show minimal pits or fissures. Poor quality or weathered material may flake or crumble during cutting.

Jet is traditionally carved, turned on a lathe, or cut into beads and cabochons. Fine workmanship—especially intricate Victorian-style carvings or well-executed modern designs—adds significant value. A high, even polish is crucial to achieve the characteristic velvety luster.

Jet occurs in various coal-bearing formations, with historically important deposits near Whitby in England and in parts of Spain and elsewhere. While jet-bearing strata can be extensive, access to high-quality gem-grade material suitable for carving is more limited and often mined on a small scale.

Demand for jet is specialized and driven by historical revival styles (Victorian mourning jewelry), Gothic and alternative fashion, and collectors of antique pieces. Mass-market demand is modest, and many modern consumers encounter jet primarily as costume or vintage jewelry.

Recent Trends: niche but stable collector interest, with fine, well-documented stones achieving strong prices through specialist dealers and auctions.